Velvet!

Simplicity 2348

I made my six year old an over the top Christmas dress.  Every year we go to a pantomime and usually somewhere dressy.  Last year it was the Nutcracker at the Royal Opera House, this year it will be a Christmas concert at the Royal Albert Hall.  And, of course, there are parties and church services.  A fancy Christmas dress was in order.  Last year, I made her a chic jacket and skirt which she didn't like much at all.  I felt like a heel at the ROH, with all the other little girl's in pink confections.  So this year, I decided to do my utmost to give her an over the top girly dress.  Especially since, at six, this is probably the last year she will want to be adorned in flounces and flowers.


This one she really likes.  I even made the matching purse (and I really despise making bags.)  Naturally, she wanted the coat on the pattern envelop as well, but I drew the line.  Too much expensive material for a one off coat that might not even be warm enough, if the wind blows from the East!


I used Simplicity 2384.  Bunny, aka La Sewista, was my inspiration.  She shared the dress she was planning to make from 2348, and I thought it would be just the thing.


It's not easy to find a good selection of coordinating fabrics.  Eventually we went with some cotton velvet from Polytex.  I think the dress might have been better with more contrast and less clash, but beggars can't be choosers, and my dear daughter was enthusiastic about her choices anyway.  We bought the fabric online from Dots n Stripes.  Dots n Stripes is a little expensive, but the quality is always good and so is the service.  


Just a quick note on sizing, for anyone who might consider making this dress.  I measured my daughter carefully on all the horizontal measures and found that she perfectly fit a size five, though she is six and a half.  So I went ahead, sewed up a five and then realised that it was way to short when she put on the finished article.  My daughter is very average in height and weight, not particularly tall or thin.  Anyway, I added an extra ruffle from underneath to give it a bit more length.  This way, I can later rip out the ruffle for daughter number two, when she fits the dress, without having to re-hem the dress.  Or maybe she will need the extra ruffle too.  


Finally, velvet!  What lovely stuff!  Now and then I see the odd top or dress in a woman's catalog made of velvet.  I am never interested because I always think of velvet as being this cheap shiny stuff used to make kids costumes, etc.  Good quality cotton velvet is a whole different animal.  This stuff was warm, rich and luxurious without any hints of tacky.  It was also very easy to sew, though it did tend to unravel.  I kept looking at the fabric hoping there would be enough left over to use as facing in a jacket.  I was imagining a brown tweed jacket with this wild pink velvet facing...

More Tweed Please!

Simplicity "Threads" 2758, view E

I had a little bit of wool/acrylic tweed in my stash.  It was a birds eye tweed that I bought on sale last year at John Lewis (dept store in UK).  I wasn't sure what to do with it, and then decided I would try to make myself a skirt.  My daughters are always thrilled when I wear a skirt.  It turned out fine.  I thought an A-line skirt would be really great on me, but I feel a little meh about it.  I think I made it with too much ease and therefore it doesn't sit on my actual waist which in this case just means that my waist looks thicker and lower.

Side view, you can see that it has slid down a bit.

It's not the end of the world though.  It is certainly very comfortable and very warm!  Two characteristics that mean it will get wear from me even if it is not the most flattering option.  

There was no lining in the pattern, how annoying.  Anyway, I added my own.  It went OK.  I had wanted to leave the lining hanging free, but I couldn't figure out how to finish the side seams if I did.  I don't have a serger and a french seam finish would have made the side zipper a problem.  So, in the end, I pressed the lining seams open and caught the lining hem in the skirt hem.  Hopefully this doesn't cause trouble when I wash it.

Lining hem caught and sewn inside skirt hem.

The pattern required a LOT of hand stitching for "view e."  I don't mind hand stitching, it is a good excuse to sit in front of the TV and watch something silly.  I toyed with the idea of using a strongly contrasting thread for the top stitching, maybe bright pink, but chickened  out and went with a coordinating brown.  I was afraid a "colour" would limit what I could wear the skirt with.  If I had it to do over, I would be bolder.

But the biggest thing to mention in this post is how nice tweed is!  Wow!  What a joy to sew with.  I want more of this stuff, and for once I am living in the right place- hurray!  It handles so easily and looks so lux.  When you iron it, it smells like a field of sheep in the rain...not an off-putting sensation, if you like to ramble.  In fact, I think I am falling in love with wool altogether.  It irons so well and behaves as nicely in the sewing machine as quilting cotton.  


There are definitely bargain tweeds to be found on Goldhawk Road.  They run at about £12/metre.  For a step up, I found Linton Tweeds selling directly on the internet.  They have a lot of tweeds in the £18 to £22 a metre range.  Linton supplied the tweeds to Miss Coco herself back in the day.  So I certainly have them on my radar now.


Is anyone else in love with tweed?  Am I hopeless?

Musings on Costa Rica

Here I am in the dress that I made for myself.  While making the dress, I only tried on the muslins while standing up looking in a mirror.  I had quite a surprise when I sat down in the dress.  I needed more ease.  Particularly in the sleeve caps.  Live and learn.  It still looked pretty.

Other sewing exploits while in Costa Rica included making my sister a garter for the wedding and making altering my step-mom's dress.  But, any sewing that I do, or ever will do, pales in comparison to the boy across the street from my parents.  My lucky, lucky  little sister had her dress made by a guy going to fashion design college in LA.  He just charged her for the materials and first used the dress as an assignment for school and then gave it to her.  (He got an A for it and was awarded a "golden thimble.")  Check it out:

 I am not sure how well you can see the bodice in this picture.  But I can confirm that it is amazing.  All the sequins and seed pearls were sewn on by hand.  He told me that it took him about 120 hours!  Phew!  He is now graduating with three offers from design houses.  Wow.

Here is one more look at all that hand beading.

As for the non-sewing aspects:  The groom is a very nice young man.  Kind, considerate and calm.  My sister glowed, cried a little and smiled a lot.  It was great to see so much of my family.  I was on my own so I got to read a LOT.  I have almost finished  "Albion's Seed, Four British Folkways in America" by David Hackett Fischer which is a 900 page book!  An amazing feat for a mother of two young children.  

I realise that this is a sewing blog, but I do want to recommend this book, especially to my American friends and readers.  It explains how people from different parts of Britain migrated en-mass to different parts of British America and created distinct cultures in each region.  Even if your heritage is not primarily British (mine certainly isn't) it's fascinating.  Because the British came first and established a culture, subsequent waves of white immigrants tended to melt into the established British customs.  After reading this book, I feel that I have a better understanding of who I am.

Hmm, white immigrants.  As I get older, I realise that my history books in school as well as the ones I pick up to read out of choice don't have much to say about black people which is kind of odd given what a large percentage of the population was/is black as well as the fact that black people have been in North America from the very beginning of migration to the new world.  I know I could seek out black history books, but I don't want to read specialist books.  I want to read the broad sweep of history in a cohesive narrative, and I want it to be complete.  (In fairness to David Hackett Fischer, he was specifically writing about British folk ways.)  

Maybe the trouble is that little is known for certain.  Here in Britain, Oxford University has done some large studies taking DNA samples from men around the country in order to piece together just who the British are genetically and which ethnic groups settled where (Jutes, Angles, Saxons, Normans, Vikings, Celts, Romans, etc.)  It was mentioned that this was probably the last chance to do a study like this because people are so mobile these days and there is so much mass migration.  I hope some researchers are doing the same thing in the US South among the black population, while they have the chance.  As an American, I think our collective story is so important.

Silk Brocade Dress

I finally put the zip in the dress I plan to wear to my littlest sister's wedding.  For once, I am going to say that the dress actually looks better than the picture!  Today is a very bright sunny day and there are a lot of harsh shadows in this picture, but you get the idea.


The pattern was Simplicity 2579, the fabric is an Italian silk brocade.  And, boy, is it nice fabric!  Even my husband was impressed.  He asked whether I could make myself something in that sort of fabric that is a little more contemporary and wearable.  I'd really like to, but I cannot think what to make!  


This fabric is a dream to sew, as easy to handle as cotton broadcloth and light as a feather.  It's so, SO pretty.  It seems to catch the light softly and just glow.  The only downside is that it does unravel and fray badly.  I just overlocked the seams to cope with that.  I didn't want to weigh the seams down with bias tape or anything.  The fabric is so light and crisp that I worried that any kind of seam binding would distort the shape.  If anything this fabric was too light and crisp.  It feels like the skirt has a crinoline underneath it or something because it just poofs and holds the poof all on it's own.


The pattern is constructed so that you cannot slide the zipper between the dress and the bodice lining, so I did bind the seam/zipper edge with bias binding. I wanted to be neat, but also with all the fraying from the silk, it really had to be done so as not to fowl the zipper.  


By now, I am tired of sewing Simplicity 2579.  I am definitely ready to move on to something new!  But, I am certainly not tired of silk brocade.  Certainly the most luxurious stuff I have come across.

The Inside Zipper

Handpicked Zipper 

(Done mostly to avoid costly mistakes at the end of the project!)

Simplicity 2587

With the front bust sewn up a bit at the bottom

Back

Not enough ease in the arms

Without the front bust sewn shut

Still not enough ease in the arms

It was finally sunny and warm-ish yesterday, so I wore my new dress.  I actually got a load of compliments from other mums at the school gates.  The dress is pretty.  I made it out of grey doby-dot voile with an Amy Butler quilting pattern for the contrast.  My little girls were thrilled, and my three year old wanted me to wear it all the time.  So far so good.  

The problem is when I want to move in the dress.  There is not enough ease in the arms.  I set the sleeves in with no trouble, and there seemed to be a normal amount of extra fabric in the arms.  I wonder if the bottom of the arm hole should be cut higher?  The dress has a * p l u n g i n g * neckline which I had sewn shut about an inch and a half.  I thought that might be the issue, so I ripped that seam out, but it didn't help much.  Then I wondered if I should have sewn a larger size.  (I sewed a twelve and added 2 extra inches of fabric to the diameter of the skirt.)  When I look at these pictures, I don't think the bodice looks too tight.  

So, alas, I am still looking for a summer sun-dress pattern.  I was really hoping this would be my TNT pattern since it had options for sleeves/no sleeves and mini-to-maxi length.  I can't think how to fix the problems.  So I will probably just move on and look for new pattern to try.

We went to the Ball

Saturday we went to our Daughter's school's Spring Ball.  It was good fun, and I felt comfortable in my dress.  You may remember me complaining about my back and posture when first posted this finished dress.  Well, as you can see, my posture isn't improved, but when I looked around at the ball, everyone else was in the same shape!  So I didn't have to feel self conscious.  


On the other hand, I would really like to improve my posture.  I keep trying to remind myself to sit up/stand up straight.  I wonder if pilates would be the answer.  Does anyone have any tips?

Instant Success: Simplicity 2554 version A

This is my third rendition of Simplicity 2554.  This is version A with long bat-wings.  This was quick and easy, only taking a morning to whip up.  It is both comfortable and different from any other tops I have.  So, I am pleased.  My only complaint is the jersey fabric rolling up at the edges.  Is there a clever way to deal with this that I don't know about?

Surrounded by UFOs

Dress for my Youngest Sister's Wedding in July

Jacket Pieces for Burda's Sewing Lesson in March

I've always been a "completer-finisher".  I am slow to get going, but I tend to see things through.  I don't like loose ends, and it bothers me to leave things unfinished.  


Lately, I've changed!  I have a silk dress almost finished for my littlest sister's wedding in July, but somehow I just don't want to slip stitch the lining down or insert the zipper.  With plenty of time to go, it sits in my closet.  


I've never sewn a proper jacket before so I thought a Burda "sewing lesson" might be a good idea.  Then I actually saw denim lacquered to look like snake skin, just like the fabric in Burda Style, on Gold Hawk Road and decided, why not?  I've finally cut the whole thing out.  (What a pain it is not to have seam allowances included!)  And now, I realise that I don't have enough lining material, or small shoulder pads, etc.  Suddenly, it all looks like too much hard work.  I am not sure I am a snake skin kind of girl, etc.  So, I am just scooping all this into a used plastic grocery bag and sticking it into the corner.  I might have more enthusiasm for a grey denim jacket in October.  Having it all cut out might even jump start me when the time comes.  Can't you just hear all the self-justifying!


What I'd really like to do is sew more simple tops.  So that's what I am going to do.  I might even have a completed knit top to show you this week.

Simplicity 2579 Finished!

The finished dress:

From the side:

From the back:

(Oh dear am I pear shaped!)

My thoughts on this project are:


1. I am not as young as I was the last time I dressed up like this!  I am now a little self conscious about my back.  It's pale with lots of splotchy freckles (aka sun-damage).  It's a lot more rounded than it used to be, and I was surprised to see how far forward my shoulders were.  Making this dress was a somewhat un-welcomed reality check.  Oh well.  I suppose the facts of life apply to us all- me included!  :)


2. I tried my best to do a really good job on this dress.  And, over all, I think I succeeded. However, I should have considered where the print would fall when the seams came together.


3. The fabric is lush.  It feels luxurious, and the print is striking.  All that said, it might not be the most attractive option on somebody with my skin tones.  I think this would be particularly pretty on someone with olive or brown skin.  I am quite pale.

Muslins

Muslin number 1: size 12

Muslin number 2: size 8

Muslin number 3: size 8 with lining

Muslin number 4: size 8 with back midriff shortened and skirt added

I heeded everyone's very sensible advice and kept making muslins until the dress fit.  I should definitely fit a size 12, but the pattern had more than 3" of ease in the bust which was just too much.  I didn't like the gaping across my back, I wanted the bodice to fit through the under-bust area and not slump down.  

I also took some length out of the midriff back pattern pieces.  I think that because there was nothing holding up the back of the bodice it tended to slide down and this caused it to bunch up in the small of my back.  I can now see why making muslins is so important before cutting into expensive fabric.

The actual dress is finished.  If my husband is home during daylight hours at all this week, I will ask him to take a picture of me so I can show you all.

Ball Gown Chosen!

In the end, I am not going with any of the Vogue patterns that attracted me.  Here is how it happened.

This last Saturday, I went into town with a friend to hunt for fabrics.  London is a big spread-out place, so I did not manage to get to all the places that I had hoped to go.  I started on Gold Hawk Road near Shepherd's Bush tube station.  It's a good place to grab a bargain.  I was thinking that I would buy some sort of Silk for between £7 and £13 a meter.  In the end, I bought a lot of cheap cotton jersey, but no fancy fabric.  

We decided to head up Edgeware Road to check out Joel and Sons. Wow! They had a lot of beautiful fabric. They had a lot of expensive fabric. I fell in love with this piece of silk.

My friend thought it was just awful.  She doesn't care much for black and yellow together.  I couldn't be dissuaded, though.  I was able to contemplate buying it because it was the last 2.7 meters on the bolt and therefore they had knocked it down to half price.  Still wildly expensive by my standards, but I went for it.  The sales girl was pattering the whole time about how it was couture cloth from Raffaella Curiel.  How can the fabric be couture?  I thought couture referred to the sewing technique, not the materials.  I did google Raffaella Curiel, and she is an actual Italian Designer.  (I am pretty ignorant.) The important thing for me is that the fabric is really, really pretty.  No one in my circle would know such a name or care, but we all appreciate beauty when we see it!   

I am including a picture of the bag because my husband said it was the fanciest bag he had ever seen.

And how about the Queen's warrant while we are at it!

While I cannot claim that making this dress at home will be an out and out bargain, I can say that I got a lot of "bang for my buck."  I wouldn't have had nearly as swanky experience spending the same amount of money on a dress at a store, not even if I had spent three times as much on dress.  So, in that sense, I did get value for money!


Of course, making a completely random fabric choice, meant reconsidering my pattern options.  I went to the Oxford Street John Lewis, the best place I know to get a good selection of patterns.  They did not have the new Spring Vogue patterns at all and didn't seem to think they would be getting them in either.  Strange.  In the end I flicked through everything they had and settle on version D of Simplicity 2579.  Not something that I even noticed before, but it did come in at the right amount of yardage, and I think it will show off the fabric nicely.  Additionally, it looks like an easy pattern to alter.  It should be no problem to sew a 12 on top and a 14 on bottom for instance.

 

Also, I understood all the instructions, when I read through the pattern.  There was nothing conceptually over my head which isn't always the case when I embark on a sewing project.  Sometimes I just plow in and hope it will make sense, when I get there!  I learn a lot this way, but I don't always end up with successful garments.  With expensive fabric and a definite date of May the 8th for this dress, I am happy to stay as much within my comfort zone as possible.

There is only one review on pattern review for this pattern, but they did rate it Easy and Great for Beginners.  So, fingers crossed!  

Another Try at Simplicity 2554, Version B

I've gone back and sewn Simplicity 2554 in version B again.  This time, actually following the instructions!  It turned out fine.  I used some white, 100% cotton jersey that I picked up very cheaply in Truro 2 Easter's ago.  It would have looked a little nicer in a slinkier knit.  This knit is sort of thick and stiff.  But it is still plenty good enough for kicking around with the kids, which is the purpose of this shirt.

I'm not sure this is a great pattern for a woman my age.  It's a little frilly.  Then again, why not?  I might as well jump on the band wagon now, because I'll only be older next year :)


My plan is to make two more short sleeved tshirts, probably from HotPattern's Weekender Sunshine Pattern.  It's nice and relaxing to sew something from a pattern that you have already tried out.  Then, I can turn my attention to more interesting things.  Like a Spring Ball the beginning of May...

Simplicity 2554

I didn't sew all the winter clothes that I wanted to sew, but I've cut my losses and moved on to Spring/Summer. Soon there will be so much work in the garden that my sewing time will really suffer, and I desperately need some tops. My first top is Simplicity's 2554 in version B.

Simple knit tops won't set the world on fire, but they are the sort of thing I wear 90% of the time, when I am running around the neighbourhood with the kids.  So, I intend to sew a handful of them and this pattern has a few different versions which is just what I need.  

I intended to sew view B.  In the end I cut out view B and almost sewed view B, but with the instructions for three different knit tops all together on the page, I got confused and followed some of the instructions for view C.  Once I realised that I had the shoulder ruffles extending further down the sides than was intended, I decided to leave it!  I think it looks OK and I didn't want to pick out all the stitches on a thin jersey knit.  I'll try to sew version B again in white and do it properly.  

There is a lot to like about this pattern.  It's quick and easy.  It doesn't require any notions, so it's cheap.  It accents the shoulders and is drape-y.  It comes in several variations.  The only downside is that it minimizes the bust.  I am a small B and that is not welcomed.

Why am I keen on shoulders and drape-y?  Well, all the trousers around here are now tight through the thighs and tapered down through the ankles, where they usually bag up a little.  I am a pear shape and need a little balance on my top half, especially with jeans and pants in this silhouette. I've held out in boot cut jeans for as long as I can.  Now, when I wheel around the grocery store, I definitely feel like I am in "Mom Jeans," and mom jeans that not even the other moms are wearing! 

Just a quick thought on fabric selection.  I used a black bamboo jersey knit from fabric.com which had been in my stash for nearly two years.  (Hey, that's a make for the month of March in Helen's stash busting drive!)  I always wash my fabrics before sewing them.  I am a good girl.  Usually this makes the jersey knits roll up terribly, but this knit wasn't bad at all.  Perhaps because it is bamboo rather than all cotton?  Also, does everyone pre-wash their cotton jersey?  Would it be more sensible not to bother because of the rolling?