burda style magazine 3/2010 Mini Dress #118A
First I tried this pattern from Burda Style magazine in March. It looked easy to sew and easy to wear. Not a great look on a pear shape. In the end, I didn't bother to finish it off. Since it was a knit, there was no muslin as such. Instead, I sewed it up in a cheap knit from my stash, so if it worked great, if not we'll call it a muslin!
Still wanting a short-ish (not too short though, my knees are chubby) knit dress, I decided to try Vogue's 1151. It's the sort of pattern that, when I look at it in Vogue's promotional materials, I think no way. But the online sewing community has had a lot of good things to say about it, so I decided why not? I am pear shaped and would look pear shaped in it of course, but on the up side, I like my arms and the neck is very pretty. So why not accept myself and give it a go? Sort of an "honour the pear shape" rather than "hide the pear shape" approach.
Now, here is where I get annoyed with the Big 4 pattern makers. Their patterns are multi-sized, but not all sizes are printed on the same pattern. I am a 12 on top and a 16/18 on bottom. Vogue sells this pattern as either a 6-12 or a 14-20. I bought the 6-12 because I have read that it is easier to increase a skirt than it is to adjust the bodice. I did pretty well. I added in about 4 inches to the girth of the size 12 in the skirt. Some of this was taken into the darts, the rest was simply eased in. No problem there.
I bought and read Pati Palmer's "Fit for Real People." (A great book, thank you for the tip guys!) And I tried to follow their technique. I nearly managed but not quite. I think I was grading up so much and getting so far afield on my own that it just got beyond my capabilities. I really feel that had I been able to cut a 12 on top, and gradually feather out to a 16 at my hips I would have done much better, but, I would have had to buy two patterns to do it! I refuse to buy two of the same pattern.
Now, all that said, I should say that this pattern was actually easy to sew and it was pretty flattering (not counting the pulling around my hips, of course!) It looks like a tight, knit sheath, but the darts at the tummy and back shape it nicely so that it makes you look slim- yea! The cowl neck and exposed zipper give it a lot of interest without it being difficult to put together. So, I would recommend it to others, although I am fed-up with it myself! Just one caveat, I added 4 inches in length. I am 5'6" tall and wish that I had added 6". For me, 6" would have brought it to the top of my knee cap. A more flattering length for me (I haven't worn thigh high skirts since I was a teenager.)
I think I am going to go off and sew myself some tote bags, drawstring pants, and Weekender Sunshine t-shirts, until I regain confidence!
